Most of the watches we ship come with one strap — usually a steel bracelet or a leather strap depending on the model. But a single strap rarely fits every occasion. The same watch on a sailcloth strap looks completely different from how it looks on a polished steel bracelet, and the practical case for swapping straps is just as strong: a leather strap is bad for the gym, and a steel bracelet feels heavy on a long flight.
The good news is that changing a strap is a five-minute job once you have the right tool. The less-good news is that "the right tool" matters more than most owners realise. This guide walks through the actual steps, the small details that ruin straps if you skip them, and how to size a new strap correctly so the clasp ends up centred on the underside of your wrist.
What you'll need
For most watches, you need exactly two things:
- A spring bar tool. A small, double-ended tool with a forked tip on one end and a pin on the other. Costs around $10–15. Cheap multi-tool kits work fine — you don't need anything fancy.
- A clean microfibre cloth. Lay it on the table to catch parts and prevent the case from sliding around or getting scratched.
If you're working on a watch with screw bars instead of spring bars (some integrated bracelets, some heavier sports watches), you'll also need a small precision flathead screwdriver. We'll cover that further down.
How to remove a standard strap (with spring bars)
The vast majority of watches use spring bars: small spring-loaded pins between the lugs that hold the strap in place. Here's the process:
- Lay the watch face-down on the microfibre cloth so the case doesn't get scratched.
- Find the small slot on the inside of the lug, between the lug and the strap. The slot lets you reach the spring bar's tip.
- Slide the forked end of the tool into the slot and gently pry the spring bar inward. The spring will compress and the bar will release from the lug hole.
- Lift the strap off the released side, then repeat on the other lug.
- Save the spring bars — they fit any standard strap of the same lug width.
If you have a watch with drilled lug holes (you'll see two small holes on the outside of each lug — some of our watches including the Arctic GMT and Arctic Chrono II have these), you can push the spring bar from the outside with the pin end of the tool. This is faster, cleaner, and reduces the risk of slipping and scratching the lug.
Quick-release vs traditional spring bars
Quick-release spring bars have a small lever or tab on one end that lets you release the bar without a tool. For frequent strap-swappers (people who match the strap to the day's outfit), quick-release is genuinely useful.
If you're not sure which kind your strap has, look at the underside near the spring bar end. Quick-release will have a visible small lever or tab; traditional spring bars are a smooth shaft with no moving part visible from the outside.
Identifying the lug width
Lug width is the distance between the two lugs of the case, measured in millimetres. It's the single most important spec when buying a new strap — a 20 mm strap will not fit an 18 mm watch, and forcing it will damage either the strap or the lugs.
Common lug widths range from 14 mm to 22 mm:
- 14–16 mm: typical for women's watches and small dress watches
- 18 mm: common on 36–38 mm cases.
- 20 mm: the most common width — fits most 38–42 mm watches.
- 22 mm: usually larger sports or tool watches in the 44 mm+ range
You can measure the lug width with a ruler or digital caliper. Place the watch face-up and measure the inside distance between the lugs. If you don't have a caliper, the spec is almost always listed in the watch's product page.
Fitting a new strap
Once the old strap is off, fitting the new one is the same process in reverse:
- Slide the spring bar into one end of the new strap.
- Compress one side of the spring bar with the forked tool tip.
- Insert the strap end between the lugs, with the compressed end first. Release the tool — the spring bar will spring out into the lug hole.
- Tug the strap gently to confirm the spring bar is properly seated. If it pulls free, repeat. The strap should be locked in firmly.
- Repeat on the other side.
One detail people miss: the strap usually has a "12 o'clock" end and a "6 o'clock" end. The 12 o'clock end is shorter and contains the buckle's loop ("keeper"); the 6 o'clock end is longer and goes through the buckle. Swapping them puts the buckle on the wrong side of the wrist.
Integrated bracelets — a different process
Watches with integrated bracelets — where the bracelet is designed to flow seamlessly from the case, like our Arctic GMT and Arctic Chrono II — usually can't be swapped to a standard third-party strap. The first link of the bracelet is shaped to match the case and replaces what would otherwise be a 20 mm lug.
If you want a different look on an integrated bracelet watch, your options are:
- A purpose-made strap from the brand that matches the integrated profile (see our integrated straps collection)
- Adjust the bracelet length to fit your wrist precisely instead of swapping
Sizing the new strap to your wrist
This is where most owners go wrong, especially with bracelets. The watch should sit centred on the top of the wrist with the clasp centred on the underside. If the clasp ends up off to one side, the bracelet is asymmetrically sized.
For a leather or rubber strap, choose the strap length that puts the buckle in the middle hole when worn. That gives you room to tighten on cold days and loosen on warm ones. In our experience, wrists swell about half a hole-width over the course of a hot day.
For a steel bracelet, remove the same number of links from each side of the clasp. If the bracelet has a micro-adjustment system in the clasp itself (many modern bracelets do, including some of ours), use that for the final 2–4 mm of fine-tuning rather than removing additional links.
Caring for your straps
A few practical habits extend strap life:
- Leather: avoid prolonged water contact. A few minutes of rain is fine; a swim will warp and stiffen the leather permanently.
- Rubber and silicone: rinse with fresh water after pool or sea contact. Chlorine breaks down silicone over time.
- Fabric (NATO, perlon, sailcloth): the most forgiving option. Machine washable on a delicate cycle, though always remove the spring bars first.
- Steel bracelets: brush gently between the links with a soft toothbrush and warm soapy water once a month. Dry thoroughly with a microfibre cloth.
In our experience, most strap problems aren't material failures — they're caused by the wrong strap for the activity. A leather strap to the gym will last weeks, not years. A NATO at a black-tie event looks out of place. Match the strap to the day, and the same watch covers more situations than most owners give it credit for.
Frequently Asked Questions
How do I know what size strap I need for my watch?
Measure the lug width — the distance between the two lugs where the strap meets the case — in millimetres. Most watches have a lug width between 14 mm and 22 mm. The spec is usually printed on the watch's product page, or you can measure it with a digital caliper. Buy a strap of exactly that width.
Do I need a special tool to change a watch strap?
For traditional spring bars, you need a spring bar tool — a small, double-ended tool with a forked tip and a pin tip. It costs around $10–15 and is the only tool most owners ever need.
Can I change the strap on an integrated bracelet watch?
Usually not to a standard third-party strap. Integrated bracelets are designed to match the case shape, so the first link replaces the standard lugs. You can swap to a brand-made strap designed for that integrated profile, but a regular 20 mm leather strap won't fit naturally.
How tight should a watch strap be?
Snug enough that the watch doesn't slide more than half an inch up and down the wrist, but loose enough that you can comfortably slip a fingertip between the strap and your skin. Wrists swell slightly over the course of a hot day, so it's better to size slightly loose than slightly tight in the morning.
What's the difference between a watch strap and a watch bracelet?
A "strap" usually refers to a single piece of leather, rubber, or fabric. A "bracelet" refers to a metal link construction — usually steel, sometimes titanium or gold. Both attach to the watch case the same way, with spring bars or screw bars between the lugs.
